Sublime

I am always impressed by a well-written menu, one that is informative and appetizing without slipping into pretentious nonsense. Here, for example, is a London restaurant’s attempt to justify the exorbitant price of its whitebait: “The tiny fresh fish are tossed by our chef for a few fleeting seconds into a bath of boiling oil, and then removed bef

Pescato Cucinato shop, where Laura fries up her husband Edoardo’s fresh catch; grab a paper cone of deep-fried seafood as a snack.

He prepared himself a meal: radishes in a saucer with Maldon salt and grassy olive oil; good rye bread, and red wine poured with the pleasure of a man who’s elected to sin.

locals. It’s family-run, with good old-fashioned quality, as Gino (with his long white beard) cooks, and his engaging English-speaking son, Manuel, serves. They have one of the best wine lists in town, serve only homemade pasta, and are known for their raw fish and wonderful seafood antipasti misti (€10-16 pastas, €15-25 secondi, Fri-Wed 12:00-15:0

hidden in an alley deep in the heart of the old town, where Papa Ettore creates imaginative seafood dishes using the day’s catch and freshly made pasta. Ilaria and her partner Michele serve up delicate and savory gnocchi (tiny potato dumplings) with crab sauce, tender ravioli stuffed with fresh fish, and pear-and-cheese pasta. There’s nothing prete