Sublime

$$$ Hotel Giulietta e Romeo is on a quiet side street just 50 yards behind the Roman Arena. It’s stylish and well-managed; 10 of its 38 sexy, ultra-modern rooms have balconies (Sb-€139, Db-€169, bigger “superior” Db-€30 more, prices shoot up to €249/€289 during opera season, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free loaner bikes, fitness room,

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Verona Card: This tourist card covers entrance to all the recommended Verona sights (€15/24 hours, €20/72 hours, sold at the TI and at participating sights). The card can save day-trippers intent on blitzing the city almost a third off their sightseeing costs. (However, the card does not cover city transportation, nor does it include the expensive

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Enoteca Can Grande is enthusiastically run by Giuliano and Corrina, who enjoy turning people on to great, well-matched food and wine. You can sit on a quiet street or in a plush little dining area inside. Their star offering is a €40 set menu, a festival of antipasti treats, an imaginative pasta, your choice of a meat or fish course, and dessert. T

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Monica Lercari rents several rooms with modern comforts, perched at the top of town (small Db-€80, seaview D-€100, grand seaview terrace D-€120, includes breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, tel. 0187-812-296, mobile 320-025-4515, alcastellovernazza@yahoo.it). Monica and her husband, Massimo, run the inviting Ristorante al Castello, in the old castle tower o

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Trattoria al Pompiere, which has a commitment to regional traditions, is bigger, with formal waiters weaving among its tight tables and walls plastered with photos of big shots from the area. This bustling place is a favorite of local foodies. Marco and his gang serve gourmet meats and cheeses as antipasti from their larger-than-life back counter,

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