Sublime

hidden in an alley deep in the heart of the old town, where Papa Ettore creates imaginative seafood dishes using the day’s catch and freshly made pasta. Ilaria and her partner Michele serve up delicate and savory gnocchi (tiny potato dumplings) with crab sauce, tender ravioli stuffed with fresh fish, and pear-and-cheese pasta. There’s nothing prete

French fish stew – 390 calories Serves 2

SERVES 4 4 large plum tomatoes 20 basil leaves 250g ricotta cheese 2 aubergines 50ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for the aubergine sea salt flakes and black pepper ½ lemon 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 4 slices of rye, sourdough or your favourite good-quality bread TO PREPARE Cut each tomato into six petals.

Osteria al Duca is a fun, family-run place with a lively atmosphere and good traditional dishes. Locals line up for its affordable, two-course, €17 fixed-price meal with lots of choices. I much prefer their ground floor (piano terra—worth requesting). Reservations are advised (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, half-block east of Sc