Sublime

If Madame Girand and her husband have the stamina to keep at it for the next thirty or forty years, La Fontaine might join those other restaurants, large and small, that have become institutions. You find them all over France, places like Chez l’Ami Louis in Paris or the Auberge in La Môle. They are not always the most fashionable of restaurants, n

I had stopped at a fork in the road. Chance made me turn right instead of left, and two minutes later I arrived in the miniature village of Saint Martin de la Brasque. It was a sight to restore one’s faith in shortcuts. There was a tiny square; the houses on it had their windows shuttered against the heat. Tables and chairs were set out in the shad

Food is both the substance of life and its deepest metaphor.

But it was the food, as far as she was concerned, not the heavenly other events at Max’s, that was really the center. Max’s salads were always more beautiful and kinder than anyone else’s salads; he never put too little or too much vinegar or anything untoward like honey into the dressing. All the leaves were gloriously green and fresh and crisply