Ristorante di Aristide, right on Piazza Capellini, offers trendy atmosphere and a pleasant, less claustrophobic outdoor setting, with a view of budding soccer stars rather than harborfront glitz (€8-11 pastas, €11-20 secondi

Vecchia Trattoria Buralli, on quiet Piazza Sant’Agostino, is a good bet for traditional cooking and juicy steaks, with bright-pastel indoor and piazza seating (€7-9 pastas, €8-12 secondi, €12 fixed-price lunches, €20-30 fixed-price dinners, Thu-Tue 12:00-14:45 & 19:00-22:30, closed Wed, Piazza Sant’Agostino 10, tel. 0583-950-611).

Osteria al Duca is a fun, family-run place with a lively atmosphere and good traditional dishes. Locals line up for its affordable, two-course, €17 fixed-price meal with lots of choices. I much prefer their ground floor (piano terra—worth requesting). Reservations are advised (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, half-block east of Sc

Ananasso Bar feels Old World, with youthful energy and a great location with little tables right on the harbor. They offer toasted panini, pastries, and designer cappuccino. You can eat a bit cheaper at the bar (you’re welcome to picnic on the nearby bench or seawall rocks with a Mediterranean view) or enjoy the best-situated tables in town (Fri-We