When I was a young commis chef, Le Répertoire de la Cuisine by Louis Saulnier was the chefs’ handbook, listing all the ingredients for a great many dishes, all French.

There are, of course, many other food guides besides the Michelin. Some are good, some are cobbled together by enthusiastic amateurs, and some are not much more than vehicles for liquor advertising. None of them can match the Michelin recipe of impartiality, scope, professional attention to detail, and accuracy.