One of the joys of being a tourist is becoming temporarily inexpert in life’s little rituals, and thus having to attend to them closely: how to greet people, thank them, excuse yourself, show respect.

Most people – maybe more than you think – are peace- and love-seeking creatures who are sometimes caught in bad situations. The most practical thing you can do, even in hard times, is to lead with curiosity, lead with respect, work hard to understand the people you might be taught to detest.

“That means seeing people with generous eyes, offering... See more