On Location: Tales From Taormina and the Sicilian Set of ‘The White Lotus’

Enoteca & Ristorante Dau Cila, a cool little hideaway with a mellow jazz-and-Brazilian-lounge ambience down at the miniscule harbor,

“No, no, carissima, that was a thousand and one coffees’ worth of entertainment!” says Orso, pulling on his loden coat and preemptively brushing past Shay as he plucks a five-euro note from his wallet and, with a flourish, hands it to the unsmiling Irish cashier. “Yes, quite a yarn,” he continues, as he gallantly holds open the brass-barred front d

Ristorante al Castello is run by gracious and English-speaking Monica, her husband Massimo, kind Mario, and the rest of her family. Hike high above town to just below the castle for commanding views. Their lasagne al pesto, “spaghetti on the rocks” (noodles with shellfish), and scampi crêpes are time-honored family specialties. For simple fare and

The squat tower on the water is a great spot for a glass of wine or a meal. From the breakwater, you could follow the rope to Ristorante Belforte and pop inside, past the actual submarine door.