Must-See Japan (2020 Edition): The complete insider's guide to seeing the best of Japan in one trip

Just a little north is the National Art Centre, a magnificent venue which hosts a range of temporary exhibitions.

Insider tip: - Videogame fans should head to Super Potato, a huge store crammed with retro games and goodies. Hidden away on the top floor is an arcade featuring countless retro classics.

Nara (奈良) ** As the first permanent capital of Japan in 710, Nara is a city of historical and political significance which defies its small and compact size.

One of the few districts where the Tokyo of the past seems to live on, Asakusa should be included on most itineraries.

Yokoamicho Park, a peaceful space with gardens, earthquake memorials and a large temple.

Visit Murin-an (just west of Nanzen-ji), one of Kyoto’s most peaceful and beautiful gardens, but often overlooked by tourists. (◙ www.murin-an.jp/en ☼7.30am-6pm but varies so check website, ¥410)

Walk there in 40 minutes from Arashiyama Station, via the equally lovely Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street, a scenic route lined by Meiji-era style machiya (town houses).

park is Meiji Shrine**, an impressive shrine complex dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji.

Easily missed but well worth the effort of going there, Sanjusangendo is one of the most spectacular and unique temples in the whole of Japan.

free and pleasant to wander around. Five minutes walk east of Higashi Honganji is Shosei-en, a large Japanese garden with a pond, some teahouses and plenty of cherry blossom in the spring. Entry is free but a small donation is expected.