I often go to Catania, a vibrant, young city half an hour from Taormina. My destination is always Via Santa Filomena, a pedestrian street of breweries, and restaurants. My go-tos for drinks are Gloriole, Vermut, and Pamochã, which serves an irresistible combo of bread, mortadella, and champagne.

The moment Tomomi tasted the dish, he involuntarily closed his eyes. That sweetness of the egg, mingling with the slight bitterness of the tiny sardines. The nutty aroma of the sesame oil . . . it was all just like back in the day. Tomomi leaned forward and, in a slight breach of etiquette, hovered his chopsticks back and forth over the various dis

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