All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora

Our culture gives us what Henry Miller called ‘the air-conditioned nightmare.’

let me act out my part at the same time I’m straightening it out, so as to reach an authentic destiny.’”

Part of our limitations is lifelong conditioning; we’ve bought into the social routine and, like most everyone else, wear the mantle of restraint and resignation without really knowing it’s there. It’s not so hard to understand why: To break away from family and responsibility is tough. Tougher still is to actually come face-to-face with your own f

Most people don’t think of their lives as their own, as something they can spend as they choose.

Surfing is even more transitory than climbing up or skiing down a mountain. At least when you’re done, the mountain is still there.