Sublime

In the Butiega shop at Via Fieschi 142, Vincenzo sells organic local specialties (daily 8:00-19:30). For picnickers, they offer €4 made-to-order ham-and-cheese sandwiches and a fun antipasti misti (priced by the weight). Veronica prepares local specialties daily in the tiny kitchen in the back of the shop. There are good places to picnic farther al

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Ristorante Belvedere, big and sprawling, is the place for a good-value meal indoors or outdoors on the harborfront. Their anfora belvedere—mixed seafood stew dumped dramatically at the table from a pottery amphora into your bowl—is huge, and can easily be split among up to four diners (€48). Share with your group and add pasta for a fine meal. Muss

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Aria di Mare Rooms rents four sunny rooms and an apartment 20 yards beyond Trattoria dal Billy at the very top of town. If you don’t mind staying in a mostly residential zone high above the tourists, this is a great value. Three rooms have spacious terraces with knockout views and lounge chairs. Maurizio speaks a little English (Db-€85, Db apartmen

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ravioli, the catch of the day, and huge crocks of fresh, steamed mussels. Young chef Marco cooks with charisma, while his wife, Anna, takes good care of the guests. This place is quieter, buried in the old town two blocks off the beach, and has covered tables out front for people-watching (€10-13 pastas and pizza, €15-17 secondi, 10 percent discoun

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