Sublime

$$ La Rosa dei Venti is an affitta camere just a couple of blocks from the beach. Enthusiastic Rosanna and her son Marco rent five super-clean rooms with dark hardwood floors, comfy rugs, and a hodgepodge of glittery seashore decor (Db-€110, Tb-€135, includes homemade breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, free parking, behind Enoteca Tumelin across from Piazz

pad. Four pristine white rooms boast fancy-hotel-type extras and a common terrace looking out over the rocky shore. It’s a climb—way, way up to the top of town—but they’ll gladly carry your bags to and from the station (Db-€160, Db suite-€220, includes breakfast at a bar, air-con, Wi-Fi, mobile 334-287-5718, www.lamala.it, info@lamala.it, charming

Aria di Mare Rooms rents four sunny rooms and an apartment 20 yards beyond Trattoria dal Billy at the very top of town. If you don’t mind staying in a mostly residential zone high above the tourists, this is a great value. Three rooms have spacious terraces with knockout views and lounge chairs. Maurizio speaks a little English (Db-€85, Db apartmen

Ristorante la Loggia has four pleasant, cozy, summery rooms perched above the old loggia on Piazza del Popolo (Db-€70, cash only, request balcony, quieter rooms in back, two basic side-by-side apartments great for families of 4-8, lots of stairs, air-con, free parking, Piazza del Popolo 7, tel. 0187-808-107, mobile 335-641-7701, www.loggialevanto.c

$$ Il Carugio has nine modern, sunny rooms right in the center of the village, most with sea views. The communal rooftop terrace offers a commanding view of the coast (Db-€70, Db with seaview balcony-€85, Db apartment-€90 plus €15/extra person, no breakfast, free parking, free self-serve laundry, tel. 0187-812-293, mobile 335-175-7946 or 329-228-38

English and happily meets his guests at the station to carry their bags. There are five beautiful, top-end, pricey units, most high above the main street: Three doubles share a fine oceanview terrace (townview Db-€90, seaview Db-€140), and two apartments are more spacious, with fine terraces and views (townview Db-€120, seaview Db with big terrace-

$$ Riomaggiore

are decorated in soothing, modish colors. It’s located just 5 minutes from the station and 10 minutes from the beach (Db-€85-140, Wi-Fi, Via Martiri della Libertà 28, tel. 0187-808-275, www.carlahotel.com, info@carlahotel.com

nice, tidy, well-equipped rooms with a large and inviting common living room, plus three apartments. It’s in a modern setting a few minutes’ walk uphill from the train tracks (Db-€100, view apartment Db-€140, Qb-€180, 3-night minimum for apartment, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Discovolo 126, mobile 334-389-4764, www.dapaulin.it, prenotazioni@dapaulin.it). H