Sublime

Pizzeria-Focacceria da Emy (not to be confused with Ristorante Ely, up the street) makes airy focaccia and thick-crust pizzas for casual seating or takeout (€5-9 pizza, €3 focaccia, daily 10:30-20:00, later in summer, along the skinny street next to the church, Emiliano). In the New Town,

$$$ La Torretta is a trendy, upscale 11-room place that caters to a demanding clientele. Probably the most elegant retreat in the region, it’s a peaceful refuge with all the comforts for those happy to pay, including a communal hot tub with a view. Guests enjoy a complimentary snack and glass of prosecco on arrival, free wine-tastings, breakfast bu