Sublime

Vecchia Trattoria Buralli, on quiet Piazza Sant’Agostino, is a good bet for traditional cooking and juicy steaks, with bright-pastel indoor and piazza seating (€7-9 pastas, €8-12 secondi, €12 fixed-price lunches, €20-30 fixed-price dinners, Thu-Tue 12:00-14:45 & 19:00-22:30, closed Wed, Piazza Sant’Agostino 10, tel. 0583-950-611).

Osteria Mananan—between the Ciappà bus stop and the main square at Via Fieschi 117—serves what many consider the best food in town in its small, stony, elegant interior (€10 pastas, €10-16 secondi, Wed-Mon 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:00, closed Tue, no outdoor seating, tel. 0187-821-166).

pad. Four pristine white rooms boast fancy-hotel-type extras and a common terrace looking out over the rocky shore. It’s a climb—way, way up to the top of town—but they’ll gladly carry your bags to and from the station (Db-€160, Db suite-€220, includes breakfast at a bar, air-con, Wi-Fi, mobile 334-287-5718, www.lamala.it, info@lamala.it, charming

about 9:00-19:00 or sunset). Try these easygoing shops: Antonio Poli (Piazza Santa Maria 42, tel. 0583-493-787, enthusiastic Cristiana) and, right next to it, Cicli Bizzarri (Piazza Santa Maria 32, tel. 0583-496-682, Australian Dely). At the south end, at Porta San Pietro, you’ll find Chronò (same rates and hours as the competition, Corso Garibaldi

$$ La Rosa dei Venti is an affitta camere just a couple of blocks from the beach. Enthusiastic Rosanna and her son Marco rent five super-clean rooms with dark hardwood floors, comfy rugs, and a hodgepodge of glittery seashore decor (Db-€110, Tb-€135, includes homemade breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, free parking, behind Enoteca Tumelin across from Piazz

Their smaller wine bar next door, Enoteca Il Santino Gastronomia, feels like the perfect after-work hangout for foodies who’d like a glass of wine and some light food. Tight, cozy, and atmospheric, one

Osteria al Duca is a fun, family-run place with a lively atmosphere and good traditional dishes. Locals line up for its affordable, two-course, €17 fixed-price meal with lots of choices. I much prefer their ground floor (piano terra—worth requesting). Reservations are advised (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, half-block east of Sc