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The famous Anton Ego speech in Ratatouille:
In many ways, the work of a critic is easy.
We risk very little, yet enjoy a position of those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgement.
We thrive on negative criticism.
Which is fun to write and to read.
But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the ave
... See moreSally Darr, Formidable Chef of ’80s-Era French Bistro, Dies at 100
nytimes.com

Suyako dipped her first piece of tonkatsu in the ponzu sauce, then brought it to her mouth. She chewed carefully on it a few times. Then her face broke into a gentle smile. ‘Delicious.’ The word wasn’t addressed to anyone in particular, but seemed to burst from her mouth. For her second piece, she chose the spicy sauce. This time, before taking a b
... See moreJesse Kirkwood • The Kamogawa Food Detectives
I am always impressed by a well-written menu, one that is informative and appetizing without slipping into pretentious nonsense. Here, for example, is a London restaurant’s attempt to justify the exorbitant price of its whitebait: “The tiny fresh fish are tossed by our chef for a few fleeting seconds into a bath of boiling oil, and then removed bef
... See morePeter Mayle • Encore Provence: New Adventures in the South of France (Vintage Departures)
‘From top left,’ began Nagare, tucking the tray under his arm, ‘Miyajima oysters, simmered Kurama-style, miso-glazed baked butterburs with millet cake, bracken and bamboo shoot stew, chargrilled moroko, breast of Kyoto-reared chicken with a wasabi dressing, and vinegared Wakasa mackerel wrapped in pickled Shogoin turnip. In the bottom right you hav
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