Sublime

Mercy triumphs over judgment.

Garum: This ingredient is a must for nearly every Ancient Roman recipe. It’s a fermented fish sauce that was often used in place of salt, but its flavor cannot be compared to salt and cannot be reproduced by anything other than fermented fish sauce.

Trattoria al Pompiere, which has a commitment to regional traditions, is bigger, with formal waiters weaving among its tight tables and walls plastered with photos of big shots from the area. This bustling place is a favorite of local foodies. Marco and his gang serve gourmet meats and cheeses as antipasti from their larger-than-life back counter,

ravioli, the catch of the day, and huge crocks of fresh, steamed mussels. Young chef Marco cooks with charisma, while his wife, Anna, takes good care of the guests. This place is quieter, buried in the old town two blocks off the beach, and has covered tables out front for people-watching (€10-13 pastas and pizza, €15-17 secondi, 10 percent

the Romans,

Horace, who lived from 65 BC to 8 BC and wrote that after wandering round the Roman Forum one night, he grew tired and went home to a bowl of porri et ciceris laganique catinum, leeks, chickpeas and lagana. Tempting, and an important testimony of lagana/pasta as a common food.