Sublime

Gastronomia “San Martino,” warmly and passionately run by Moreno, is a tiny, humble place with almost no ambience (except for a couple of outdoor tables) that serves inexpensive quality

To prepare salted anchovies for eating you need to brush away the salt, rinse and then open them out like a butterfly in order to ease away the bone. Once boned, blot, lay in a shallow dish, cover with olive oil and use within 3 days. A faff, but you are rewarded with fat, pink fillets of a quality and flavour usually found in only the most expensi

Ristorante Torcolo is a family restaurant, with mom (Paola) running the kitchen, and father and son (Roberto and Luca) serving the meals. While it feels a bit dressy, it lacks pretense. They serve all the classic dishes, with an accessible menu and an extensive wine list. Eat in their dining hall or on the tiny courtyard outside (€8-10 pastas, €14-

It is the way they pleat and fold that makes them so satisfying. First on the plate and then again in your mouth. Pappardelle are typical of all the central and central-northern Italian regions, each one boasting a slightly different width, anything from 2.5 to 6cm. The Tuscans gave it the name; it comes from pappare, the colloquial, to eat. Fresh