Sublime

I’ve heard the Villa Gallici is a nice place.” And so it proved to be—small, charming, and a two-minute walk from the cafés and other delights of the Cours Mirabeau.

But

the best food in Avignon is displayed and sold under the car park, in Les Halles.

L’Auberge de La Môle, we agreed, was the kind of restaurant the French do better than anyone else: highly professional, and yet it felt like the extension of a friend’s kitchen, casual, easy, and comfortable. The restaurants with a row of stars, as good as they are, tend to have a similar veneer, polished, perfect, and international. The Auberge co

I have never found a more pleasant way to go shopping than to spend two or three hours in a Provençal market. The color, the abundance, the noise, the sometimes eccentric stall-holders, the mingling of smells, the offer of a sliver of cheese here and a mouthful of toast and tapenade there—all of these help to turn what began as an errand into a mor

Probably the most fashionable Provençal oils are those from the valley of Les Baux, and if you happen to be near Maussane-les-Alpilles just after the olives are gathered toward the end of the year, you can find those oils in the tiny Maussane cooperative.