Sublime

then walk across Ponte Nuovo to Pizzeria da Salvatore and enjoy the town’s best pizza. If you have to wait for a table, have another spritz at the neighboring bar. Then stroll along the river to Osteria Sottoriva, and enjoy a little sampling of bar food with a glass of Amarone (wine to meditate with) under the old arcade.

Osteria al Duca is a fun, family-run place with a lively atmosphere and good traditional dishes. Locals line up for its affordable, two-course, €17 fixed-price meal with lots of choices. I much prefer their ground floor (piano terra—worth requesting). Reservations are advised (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, half-block east of Sc

Pizza has been called il sole nel piatto—the sun on a plate—

Enoteca Can Grande is enthusiastically run by Giuliano and Corrina, who enjoy turning people on to great, well-matched food and wine. You can sit on a quiet street or in a plush little dining area inside. Their star offering is a €40 set menu, a festival of antipasti treats, an imaginative pasta, your choice of a meat or fish course, and dessert. T

terroir