Sublime

$$$ Alla Marina is Riomaggiore’s most worthwhile splurge, with three rooms and an apartment (all but one with sea views) at the top of one of the very tall, steep, skinny buildings that rise up from the harbor. The furnishings are a stylish combination of modern and nautical, and friendly brothers Sandro and Andrea take pride in running a tight shi

Ciak, high-energy and tightly packed, is a local institution with reliably good food and higher prices. It’s known for its huge, sizzling terra-cotta

Today, Da Michele might be the most popular of the traditional, old-school pizzerias in Naples. It’s often just called “Michele” by locals, who queue up for one of the eight hundred pizzas (!) made daily at this iconic spot in the middle of the city. Da Michele, founded in 1870 and in its present location since 1930, makes two kinds of pizza: marin

Gelato: Just off Piazza San Michele, De’ Coltelli has some of my favorite gelato in Italy. Like its sister shop in Pisa, this gelateria uses organic ingredients to pull out delicious—and often unique

Their smaller wine bar next door, Enoteca Il Santino Gastronomia, feels like the perfect after-work hangout for foodies who’d like a glass of wine and some light food. Tight, cozy, and atmospheric, one