Sublime

Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre, an endearing tourist trap, is located in the workaday zone behind and above the train station. The dynamic Sicilian duo Gianluca and Massimo (hardworking twins, a.k.a. the Cannoli brothers) enthusiastically offer a wide assortment of Sicilian pastries. Their fun, playful service makes up for the lack of a view. Massimo

In Catania a glass of selz al limone e sale is still considered the ideal thirst quencher for a summer’s day. You can order one at any of the beautiful art nouveau kiosks in the city centre and watch it being made while you wait. I once

In the Butiega shop at Via Fieschi 142, Vincenzo sells organic local specialties (daily 8:00-19:30). For picnickers, they offer €4 made-to-order ham-and-cheese sandwiches and a fun antipasti misti (priced by the weight). Veronica prepares local specialties daily in the tiny kitchen in the back of the shop. There are good places to picnic farther al