Sublime

a girl—and then a woman—ruled by hungers large and small.

The second—which we might call “nursery food”—says that children’s food should be separate from adult food, but that grown-ups should carefully select the foods with a view to what they believe is wholesome, rather than catering to a child’s tastes.

An era of neurotic, cheerless eating ensued, as all foods with a trace of fat – chicken skin, egg yolks, whole milk – were condemned to waste.

The third—which I’ll call “kid food”—says that children should be fed exactly what they like, no matter how sugary or fake.

“Kid food” is based on the presumption that children have a natural palate for simple carbohydrates, fat, sugar, and not much else.

Another facet of this enforced shrinking is that those with fat bodies are deemed somehow incapable of knowing what is best for them.