Sublime

Aria di Mare Rooms rents four sunny rooms and an apartment 20 yards beyond Trattoria dal Billy at the very top of town. If you don’t mind staying in a mostly residential zone high above the tourists, this is a great value. Three rooms have spacious terraces with knockout views and lounge chairs. Maurizio speaks a little English (Db-€85, Db

below the city hall (non-view Db-€70, seaview Db-€80, non-view Tb-€90, 2-room apartment: Db-€90/Qb-€130; check in at Enoteca Sciacchetrà at Via Roma 19, tel. 0187-821-112, www.5terre-vernazza.it, moggia.franco@libero.it, Francesca and Franco).

$$ A Durmì is a happy little affitta camere (guesthouse) owned by lovely Graziella, Gianni, and their two daughters, Elisa and Chiara. Their sunny patios, green leafy gardens, six immaculate modern rooms, and five sunlit apartments make a welcoming place to stay (Db-€60-110, extra bed-€20; 3-4 person apartment-€90-160—no minimum stay required; ask