Sublime

hard at Trattoria il Porticciolo (€9-13 pastas, €10-16 secondi, Thu-Tue 7:30-23:30, closed Wed, Via Birolli 92, tel. 0187-920-083).

ArbaSPàa, which has an office in Manarola, can arrange Cinque Terre experiences that might be tricky to do on your own, such as wine-tasting at a vineyard, cooking classes (6-person minimum), or a fishing trip with local sailors (see website for options and book in advance, tel. 0187-920-783, www.arbaspaa.com; their Explora shop in Manarola, at Via

$$ La Rosa dei Venti is an affitta camere just a couple of blocks from the beach. Enthusiastic Rosanna and her son Marco rent five super-clean rooms with dark hardwood floors, comfy rugs, and a hodgepodge of glittery seashore decor (Db-€110, Tb-€135, includes homemade breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, free parking, behind Enoteca Tumelin across from

English and happily meets his guests at the station to carry their bags. There are five beautiful, top-end, pricey units, most high above the main street: Three doubles share a fine oceanview terrace (townview Db-€90, seaview Db-€140), and two apartments are more spacious, with fine terraces and views (townview Db-€120, seaview Db with big

In the Butiega shop at Via Fieschi 142, Vincenzo sells organic local specialties (daily 8:00-19:30). For picnickers, they offer €4 made-to-order ham-and-cheese sandwiches and a fun antipasti misti (priced by the weight). Veronica prepares local specialties daily in the tiny kitchen in the back of the shop. There are good places to picnic farther