Sublime

Each table had its white paper cover and two unlabeled bottles of wine, a red and a pink, from the Bonnieux cooperative two hundred yards away on the other side of the road. There was no written menu. Madame cooked five meals a week, lunch from Monday to Friday, and customers ate what she decided they would eat. Her daughter brought us a basket of

Salt on Your Tongue: Women and the Sea,

doing one thing very well: turning out piping-hot, wood-fired pizzas to happy locals in a no-frills, welcoming, wood-paneled dining room. Order and pay at the counter, take a number, and they’ll call you when your pizza’s ready. Consider takeout to munch on the nearby walls (€6-7 pizzas, Wed-Mon 11:30-14:30 & 18:30-23:00, closed Tue, to the rig

the metal ring. A thin metal ring, or cut-down section of PVC pipe, about an inch and a half to two inches tall and varying inches across, is the backbone of pretentious food presentation. Just

qualidade mais importante que um caldo cozido por muito tempo acrescenta a qualquer prato é o sedutor e ainda um tanto misterioso quinto gosto, chamado umami.

'Beef Parmentier'? 'Shepherd's pie'? 'Chili special'? Sounds like leftovers to me.

When I was the executive chef, a few years ago, of a stadium-size nightclub/supper club near Times Square, it often meant six and seven hundred meals a night—a logistical challenge that called for skills closer to those of an air-traffic controller or a military ordnance officer than to those of a classically trained chef.