Sublime

At the bottom is the plain old farmyard chicken, raised—en liberté, as the French say—in the open air in the traditional way, allowed to feed on whatever nature provides. Then we have the biological or organic chicken, with a controlled diet that is guaranteed free of any chemical seasonings. And finally, there is the ultimate chicken, the only

Qualifications are extremely strict. First of all, every chicken worthy of its appellation must possess a patriotic external appearance, in colors that happen to repeat the tricolor of the French flag: • Blue feet. But not any old blue; the feet must have the pale gleam of blue steel. And around the left ankle, there must be an aluminum ring marked