Sublime

$$$ La Torretta is a trendy, upscale 11-room place that caters to a demanding clientele. Probably the most elegant retreat in the region, it’s a peaceful refuge with all the comforts for those happy to pay, including a communal hot tub with a view. Guests enjoy a complimentary snack and glass of prosecco on arrival, free wine-tastings, breakfast

Osteria al Duca is a fun, family-run place with a lively atmosphere and good traditional dishes. Locals line up for its affordable, two-course, €17 fixed-price meal with lots of choices. I much prefer their ground floor (piano terra—worth requesting). Reservations are advised (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, half-block east of

Aria di Mare Rooms rents four sunny rooms and an apartment 20 yards beyond Trattoria dal Billy at the very top of town. If you don’t mind staying in a mostly residential zone high above the tourists, this is a great value. Three rooms have spacious terraces with knockout views and lounge chairs. Maurizio speaks a little English (Db-€85, Db