When Francesco Risso (Creative Director, 2016 until June 2025) arrived, that philosophy expanded horizontally rather than vertically — into art, craft, emotion, collectivity. It became a cultural system rather than just a silhouette. And crucially, it was never framed as activism. It was simply how the brand thought about people.

Who Decides War is reminding us of one very important lesson for its Spring/Summer 2026 collection: “Read the Room.” As Téla D’amore told us before the show, this collection came off the heels of one of the hardest years ever – both for her and Ev Bravado, as well as the world at large.

Consumers are more visually fluent, harder to impress, and uninterested in volume. Scarcity doesn’t create desire — conviction does. You see this in the resurgence of pieces meant to endure: vintage Armani, Miyake, Versace. The question becomes: What’s worth keeping?