learned that fear is a part of life, and it can be a very healthy part, especially when you realize that in a life-threatening situation, it is possible to rise above panic and maintain control of rampaging emotions. I

and vegetable soup, followed by three generous helpings of beef bourguignon with tender noodles in a red wine sauce, along with plenty of bread and coffee. Dessert was cheese, crackers, and a mug of hot chocolate. After dinner, I sipped cognac and puffed on a fine cigar while relaxing in the shelter of my muddy portable home. I was feeling great.

came to … a world that was governed by the sand and the wind and the lie of the land. A world in which the things that mattered were the pack on your back, and sunlight on rough rock and the look of the way ahead. A world in which you relied, always, on yourself.”

Dying because of an accident or injury was a risk I accepted. Dying because of a dumb mistake was humiliating and much more difficult to accept. I managed to stay relatively calm and devised an admittedly meager plan.

Remoteness and isolation made this trail unique. In the 402 miles between Norman Wells and Ross River, there were no towns or even permanent

aurora borealis, six wolves on the Carcajou River, and a Dall sheep

On the other hand, maybe I was judging myself too harshly. Wasn’t fatigue the real culprit?

must admit that I was a little sad to see Trapper go. In the few days we were together, we covered a lot of miles, shared an adventure, and formed a nice bond.

My fondest memories, however, are of the good people—total strangers—who did really nice things for us. Perhaps people who live closer to nature are inherently kinder and more generous.