The Sun Is a Compass: A 4,000-Mile Journey into the Alaskan Wilds

They have dense bones that can resist pressure underwater, fewer air sacs than other birds to reduce their buoyancy, and muscles designed for diving. But

carefully planned, our route detailed, the logistics ironed out? But uncertainty has become the only constant. Rather than adhering to schedules or itineraries, our days are shaped by the landscape; each valley, each river, each pass slightly different from the last.

After almost five months, movement brings stillness. Movement brings peace.

four thousand miles of roadless, trailless terrain through a landscape

The certainty that comes from being loved.

Dealing gracefully with a chronic illness takes an ocean of strength. I hope that somewhere inside of me, I have a bit of that same

After almost two months in the constant company of the sea, we will head inland, traveling north into Canada’s Yukon. If our mountain crossing goes well, we’ll be in Whitehorse in less than two weeks.

Oh, no, the current is so close.” Then, in a single, impossible motion, the animal channels its energy into its core and, like a spring released, launches onto its feet. Prancing, it high-steps along the steep bluff. When it eventually darts up the embankment into the brush, I clap my hands, the mother in me washed with relief.

alcoholic; a shower and four walls provided to me right now. The line between words and actions quickly becomes blurred, so we don’t usually speak of our deepest doubts, or acknowledge that we could cause our own undoing. Today I don’t care. I can think of no reason to continue,