The famous Anton Ego speech in Ratatouille: In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position of those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgement. We thrive on negative criticism. Which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk, is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends. Last night I experienced something new. An extraordinary meal, from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker challenged my preconceived conceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau’s famous motto: “Anyone can cook.” But I realize only now, I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist. But a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those genius now cooking at Gusteau’s, who is, in this critic’s opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I would be returning to Gusteau’s soon, hungry for more. It was a great night.”