Up at the very top of town, in the residential zone above the church, dining options are sparse, but the one place that’s here is a good one: Trattoria dal Billy offers both good food and impressive views over the valley. With Edoardo and Enrico’s homemade black pasta with seafood and squid ink, green pasta with artichokes, mixed seafood starters,

Riomaggiore’s uncomfortably rocky but still inviting beach (spiaggia). Ponder how Europeans manage to look relaxed when lounging on football-sized “pebbles.”

338-413-8696,

Here begins one of the finest hikes in the region, tight-roping along narrow trails tucked between vineyard terraces, with spectacular bird’s-eye views over the entire Cinque Terre.

Sestri Levante, on a narrow peninsula flanked by two beaches, is for sun-seekers.

about 9:00-19:00 or sunset). Try these easygoing shops: Antonio Poli (Piazza Santa Maria 42, tel. 0583-493-787, enthusiastic Cristiana) and, right next to it, Cicli Bizzarri (Piazza Santa Maria 32, tel. 0583-496-682, Australian Dely). At the south end, at Porta San Pietro, you’ll find Chronò (same rates and hours as the competition, Corso Garibaldi

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Boat schedules are posted at docks, harbor bars, Cinque Terre park offices, and hotels (

Osteria Mananan—between the Ciappà bus stop and the main square at Via Fieschi 117—serves what many consider the best food in town in its small, stony, elegant interior (€10 pastas, €10-16 secondi, Wed-Mon 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:00, closed Tue, no outdoor seating, tel. 0187-821-166).