Rick Steves Italy 2015

They can be prepared a variety of ways: marinated, salted, butterflied and deep-fried (sometimes with a delicious garlic/vinegar sauce called giada

At Il Frantoio, Simone makes tasty pizza and focaccia to go or to munch perched on a stool (Fri-Wed 9:00-13:45 & 16:30-19:30, closed Thu, just off Via Roma at Via Gioberti 1).

rooms—one spacious and basic on the harbor square (Db-€95), the other a molto chic split-level apartment located on a quiet side street (Db-€100, Tb-€120; tel. 339-834-2486, www.vacanzemanuela.it, manucap64@libero.it

If you’re staying the night, ask the TI about concerts. The monthly entertainment guide, Carnet Verona, sold at newsstands is in Italian only (€2).

If all of the main trails are open, the entire seven-mile coastal hike (on trail #2, with lots of ups and downs between Corniglia and Monterosso) can be done in about four hours, but allow five for dawdling.

$$$ Trattoria Gianni rents 25 small rooms. The rooms are in three buildings—one funky, two modern—up a hundred tight, winding spiral stairs. The funky ones, which may or may not have private baths, are artfully decorated à la shipwreck, with tiny balconies and grand sea views (con vista sul mare). The comfy new (nuovo) rooms lack views. Both have m

$$ Il BoMa—named for the owners, American Maddy and her Italian husband Bombetta—has three pricey but well-appointed rooms right along the main drag (Db-€90, includes

Verona Card: This tourist card covers entrance to all the recommended Verona sights (€15/24 hours, €20/72 hours, sold at the TI and at participating sights). The card can save day-trippers intent on blitzing the city almost a third off their sightseeing costs. (However, the card does not cover city transportation, nor does it include the expensive

download my series of free audio tours that illuminate some of Florence’s top sights and neighborhoods: my Renaissance Walk, the Accademia, and the Uffizi Gallery (see sidebar on here for details). For insight with