329-435-5344,

Many restaurants are particularly proud of their antipasti ai frutti di mare—it’s how they show off. For two diners, splitting one of these and a pasta dish can be plenty.

For a good croissant-and-espresso fix, drop by Bar Centrale. If you need eggs, consider Giammi Caffè, with outdoor tables on the main drag (€5 egg dishes, €13 big breakfast, daily 7:00-24:00, Via Colombo 189, mobile 331-608-3512).

rooms—one spacious and basic on the harbor square (Db-€95), the other a molto chic split-level apartment located on a quiet side street (Db-€100, Tb-€120; tel. 339-834-2486, www.vacanzemanuela.it, manucap64@libero.it

At Il Frantoio, Simone makes tasty pizza and focaccia to go or to munch perched on a stool (Fri-Wed 9:00-13:45 & 16:30-19:30, closed Thu, just off Via Roma at Via Gioberti 1).

tourists—so it’s almost never full. $$ Cristiana Ricci is an exception to the rule. She communicates well and is reliable, renting four small, clean, and peaceful rooms—two with kitchens and one with a terrace and sweeping view—just inland from the bus stop (Db-€60-70, Tb-€80, Qb-€90, €10/day less when you stay 2 or more nights, Wi-Fi, check in at

Blue Marlin Bar dominates the late-night scene with a mix of locals and tourists, home-cooked food until 23:00, good drinks, and occasional piano jam sessions. If you’re young and hip, this is the place to hang out. If you play piano, you’re welcome to contribute to the scene. They also host a free book-swap shelf.

del Capitano restaurant on the main square at Piazza Marconi 21; tel. 0187-812-201, www.tavernavernazza.com, info@tavernavernazza.com); $$ Eva’s Rooms (3 rooms overlooking main street, Sb-€60, D with private bath outside the room-€70, Db-€80, air-con, train noise, Via Roma 56, tel. 334-798-6500, www.evasrooms.it, evasrooms@yahoo.it); and $$ Manuela

First you’ll pass (on the right, at #62) a good pizzeria/focacceria, facing the Co-op grocery store across the street (at #55).