Rick Steves Italy 2015

▲▲▲Accademia Michelangelo

$$ Locanda dalla Compagnia, loosely run by Alessandro, rents five rooms at the top of town, just 300 yards below the parking lot and the little church. All rooms—decent but rather dim—are on the same tranquil ground floor and share a lounge (Db-€80, air-con, mini-fridge, no views, Wi-Fi, reception closes at 19:00, Via del Santuario 232, tel. 0187-7

Ristorante di Aristide, right on Piazza Capellini, offers trendy atmosphere and a pleasant, less claustrophobic outdoor setting, with a view of budding soccer stars rather than harborfront glitz (€8-11 pastas, €11-20 secondi

$$$ La Torretta is a trendy, upscale 11-room place that caters to a demanding clientele. Probably the most elegant retreat in the region, it’s a peaceful refuge with all the comforts for those happy to pay, including a communal hot tub with a view. Guests enjoy a complimentary snack and glass of prosecco on arrival, free wine-tastings, breakfast bu

most restaurants, especially steak, which is listed on menus as filetto di manzo (filet), tagliata di manzo (thin slices of grilled tenderloin), or the king of steaks, bistecca alla fiorentina. Order al sangue (rare), medio (medium rare), cotto (medium), or ben cotto (well). Anything more than al sangue is considered a travesty for steak connoisseu

Upstairs from this branch, drop by the easy-to-miss “Experience Florence” visitors center, with big touchscreens to help you virtually explore the city and plan an itinerary, and

At Il Frantoio, Simone makes tasty pizza and focaccia to go or to munch perched on a stool (Fri-Wed 9:00-13:45 & 16:30-19:30, closed Thu, just off Via Roma at Via Gioberti 1).

Gallery Greatest collection of Italian paintings anywhere. Reserve well

Miriana at Cinque Terre Riviera books rooms in the Cinque Terre towns, Portovenere, and La Spezia for a 10 percent markup over the list price (can also arrange transportation, cooking classes, and weddings; Via Roma 24 in Vernazza, tel. 0187-812-123, mobile 340-794-7358, www.cinqueterreriviera.com, info@cinqueterreriviera.com, English spoken).

Wear your walking shoes and pack your swim gear.