Everest: The West Ridge, Anniversary Edition

They greeted the practice sessions as children might, jesting, exclaiming, and a little fearful. Uproarious laughter followed when one of them slipped from his holds to dangle at the end of the rope. Many of them climbed with a primitive naturalness that was enviable.

We had kept the ridge attempt alive against an opposition which we thought was founded on doubt and lack of interest.

Some were more cowed than invigorated by Willi’s energy, asking themselves, “How can we hope to keep up with that?”

“Night, Tom. You seem to be cracking under the strain. Maybe you’d better go down tomorrow.” “Drop dead, Unsoeld. Goodnight.”

Too much labor, too many sleepless nights, and too many dreams had been invested to bring us this far. We couldn’t come back for another try next weekend. To go down now, even if we could have, would be descending to a future marked by one huge question: what might have been?

I have learned a deep respect for one of Goethe’s couplets: Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

To those who have struggled with them the mountains reveal beauties they will not disclose to those who make no effort.

William (Willi) F. Unsoeld, Ph.D.: 36, Corvallis, Oregon; Assistant Professor, Department of Philosophy and Religion, Oregon State University, on leave as deputy Peace Corps representative in Nepal; Climbing leader.

An American, Woodrow Wilson Sayre, and three companions, none of whom were experienced climbers, crossed secretly into Tibet from Nepal in 1962 to make an unauthorized attempt on Everest from the north. An intense personal drive combined with a sequence of incredibly lucky circumstances that all but surpasses belief permitted Sayre to reach 25,000