The procedure only Russians know, first we sweat beyond our limits, well certainly I did as they periodically poured water on the hot furnace. After exiting the sauna, you threw-off your covering and dip yourself in a small pool, individually and privately, this is the shock treatment from hot to cold. Next was a game of water polo in a hundred squ

fingernails. Hot showers are one of the few pleasures in this endless nightmare. Whisky, motorcycles, good bars with loud music. Italian coffee. Cashmere. Hotels with good soap. They make all the rest of it slightly more tolerable.